If you spend much time on Irish trails—anything from a soggy wander in Wicklow to a boggy stomp in Connemara—your boots will absolutely take a beating. They’re built for that, of course. But tossing a muddy pair into the hall press and pretending you’ll “deal with them later” (we’ve all done it) isn’t doing them any favours.
A quick clean now and then genuinely extends their life. And honestly, once you get into the habit, it doesn’t feel like a chore. Well, not a big one anyway.
Why Cleaning Matters (Even When You’re Wrecked After the Hike)
Dirt doesn’t just sit on the surface. Every flex of the boot pushes tiny bits of grit deeper into the fabric and leather, almost like very slow sandpaper. And mud—especially the clingy, peaty stuff we get here—draws moisture out as it dries. Leather hates that. It becomes stiff, cracks sooner, and generally ages fast, the way anything left drying on a radiator would.
If you’re too tired after a hike (which is fair), give them a once-over the next day. That small delay won’t ruin anything.
What You’ll Need
Nothing dramatic:
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A boot brush, old vegetable brush, or a toothbrush you don’t plan on using again
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A proper boot cleaner, saddle soap, or just mild washing-up liquid mixed with water
You don’t need a whole kit. Most people already have everything except the cleaner.
If you are looking for technical footwear cleaners, conditioners or reproofers we stock a full range from Nikwax and other popular brands.
Step 1: Cleaning the Uppers
Take the laces out first. It feels like an extra step, but it really helps.
Brush off loose dirt on the outside—gently, unless you’re dealing with heavy crusts of mud, in which case a bit more enthusiasm doesn’t hurt. If you want to get them properly clean, run a little water over the uppers and use whatever footwear cleaner is suitable for your boot material.
A few small things that matter more than you’d think:
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Double-check your cleaner is suitable for leather, suede, nubuck, or whatever your boots are made from. Most are fine, but best not assume. We have a full range of hiking footwear care products.
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Avoid bar soaps or harsh detergents. They can mess with the waterproofing or weaken leather.
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If you’ve managed to grow a small science experiment (mould happens fast in Irish humidity), mix 80% water with 20% vinegar and wipe it down.
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Rinse everything thoroughly afterward.
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And definitely don’t put boots in a washing machine. Tempting, maybe, but disastrous.
If you’re planning to re-waterproof them, do it while they’re still damp. That helps the treatment absorb more evenly. Most boots come waterproof from the factory, so don’t add more until you notice the water no longer beading on the surface—usually after a fair bit of use.
Step 2: Cleaning the Outsoles
The soles don’t usually get damaged by dirt, but they grip far better when the tread isn’t jammed with muck. Also, clean soles help prevent spreading invasive plant species from one trail to another—something many walkers don’t realise.
Just brush off the clumps, dig out the little stones, and if the muck is baked on (sunshine is rare, but it happens), soak the outsoles and spray them with a hose. A straightforward job.
Step 3: Drying & Storing Your Boots
Drying is where many people, including me once or twice, go wrong.
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Take out the insoles and let them dry separately.
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Let boots dry naturally at a normal indoor temperature.
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No heat sources—no radiators, no stoves, no fireplaces. Irish homes are full of tempting heat spots, but they can ruin leather and weaken glues.
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A fan helps if you’re in a rush.
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Newspaper works too—stuff and replace it as it gets damp.
When they’re fully dry, store your boots somewhere with stable temperatures. Not the boot of the car. Definitely not the attic. Damp, heat, or big temperature swings will slowly undo your good work.
Conditioning Your Boots (Only When Needed)
If you have full-grain leather boots—the smooth, traditional kind—condition them when the leather starts looking dry, older, or a bit cracked. Suede and nubuck don’t need conditioning, and adding it can actually damage the finish.
Use conditioner sparingly. Leather likes moisture, but too much conditioner makes boots soft in a way that affects their support and structure. A little is enough.
One more note: Skip mink oil or heavy industrial oils. They’re great for work boots but too harsh for the type of leather used in hiking footwear. They over-soften it, sometimes permanently.